Greetings from Vern Whitaker Horse Camp



 
 


Warning!  The flowers are coming!  So says prognosticator Paul Johnson,
who is calling the peak for the third week of February.  The Desert Sand Verbena are already
starting to bloom along the horse camp road.  The Dune Evening Primrose are not far behind.                                                   ...............

That full ¨perigee¨ moon over Anza Borrego last month was bright enough to ride Coyote Canyon
blindfolded at midnight.  If they still ran wild cattle in the canyon,
those old cowboys could have roped unbranded steers at 3 a.m.   In the past they did exactly that... under
a ¨wolf¨ moon, as the Indians called it.   Those vacas are long gone, however,
just like those old vaqueros, such as Lester Reed and Carlos Moreno, who gave Monkey Hill its name.
 
Speaking of Lester Reed, his little book, Old Time Cattlemen and other Pioneers of the Anza-Borrego Area,
should be required reading for anyone who is new to the Borrego
Springs area, or anyone who rides in Coyote Canyon.
Lester was grubstaked by Ann Wissler, and due to severe arthritis, wrote his book grasping
a pencil and pecking out his pages, one key at a time, on an Underwood typewriter.
 
Reed´s book reminds me of another little book entitled Bob Fudge - Texas Trail Driver - Montana-Wyoming Cowboy,
By Jim Russell. ¨  Ian Tyson wrote a great song about Fudge, after reading about Fudge´s amazing life.
Both Fudge and Reed sure lived in a different world back then.  No telephones,
planes or automobiles. Everything was done on the back of a horse or mule. 
It wasn't that many decades ago rangers patrolled this park the same way. 
 
I was reading Lester´s book for the third time in front of the ranger office the other day when 
a couple drove into Vern´s camp from San Diego in a red Jeep. 
They circled the campground a couple of times, slowly.  Then started
to leave, backed up and came over to me.  Asked me how they get a ¨permit¨ to camp here. 
I said (with a smile) the permit is called a horse.  The couple said they had no interest in horses and drove off.  
I stood there thinking...¨Well... that´s their loss.¨
 
There´s a pueblito in Sonora, Mexico called Hediondilla. This is an interesting little
town, along with the word Hediondilla
Here in Anza Borrego Desert State Park we have hediondilla everywhere
you look.  You´ll find it in all North American deserts.   It surrounds Bailey´s cabin in Coyote Canyon. 
And it´s down here around the horse camp.  Father Font mentions it in his diary in 1775 enroute San Francisco Bay.
Hediondilla is the Spanish name for the Creosote Bush.  If you want to impress your botanist friends, 
call it Larrea Tridentata.  The Cahuilla call it Atukul.   It´s known as Epsil in Kumeyaay circles. Both tribes
used this plant for centuries as their ¨drugstore in the desert.¨ 
 
Senior park aide Abby Barker gives an interpretive talk on this maligned plant,
and says Indians used hediondilla in as many ways as modern medical practitioners use antibiotics today. 
An Indian lady in Abby´s audience one day told her that she never took prescription drugs until she married. 
Her Indian grandmother took care of her when she was sick using the Creosote Bush, including a tea from the leaves.
 
When Colonization Expedition leader Lt. Col. Juan Bautista de Anza and Friar Pedro Font exited the top of Coyote Canyon
on horseback, Font wrote ¨...we left behind the hediondilla  - vile smelling shrub of evil augury.¨  Too bad the ¨Danzantes¨...as they were referred to by Anza...didn´t give this priest a little Creosote tea...it might have improved his ¨flux.¨

 
Juan Bautista de Anza used a ¨super¨courier to take his journal back to the Viceroy in Mexico City,
after successfully ¨linking¨ the land route to Alta California, Nueva España in 1774.
That courier´s name was Juan Bautista Valdez.  This correo extraordinario, or extraordinary courier as Anza referred
to him, was the courier on both the Portolá Expedition of 1769 and the Anza Exploritory Expedition of 1774. 
 

 

Valdez had brought Anza's original orders from México City to Tubac [Arizona], and accompanied the expedition
as courier and guide to Mission San Gabriel Arcángel, becoming the first man in recorded history to make
the round trip on horseback between México City and San Gabriel (Los Angeles today).
 
Valdez, a Spanish Soldado de Cuera, rode his caballo, on average, 12 leagues a day (30 miles) enroute México City,
with Anza´s journal in his mochilas (saddle bags), wrapped with waterproofing
material to protect the journal from numerous river crossings.   
 
One of Juan Bautista Valdez´s Californio relatives today is Philip Valdez, Jr., an instructor
in Ukiah, California, who knows every inch of the Juan Bautista de Anza
National Historic Trail, which actually started in San Miguel de Horcasitas, Sonora, Nueva España (México today).  
 
I´ve spent two enjoyable evenings around a campfire with Philip at Bailey´s cabin, along with other ¨Anzaholics,¨
reading and discussing the journals of Font and Anza (see attached photo - Philip is on the right. 
The president of the Anza Society, Joe Myers, is on the left, in front of Bailey´s cabin).
 
Philip often stresses that Anza ¨linked¨ the land routes to Alta California, and gives two reasons
why Anza didn´t ¨discover¨ the route.  One was that all trails used by Anza were known by the Native Americans. 
Secondly, other Spaniards already knew two of the routes, i.e. from Horcasitas to the Yuma Crossing was Father Kino´s route.  From San Gabriel to San Franciso was Portolá and Valdez´s route. 
 
Who helped put the third piece of the puzzle together for Anza
was the escaped Cochimí Indian, Sabastían Tarabal, the unwilling guide.  Anza turned Tarabal around
and had him go back on the trail he escaped from.  
                                           .........................
 
Lots of folks ask me how long it takes to get to Bailey´s cabin on a horse or mule.  My answer:   Depends. 
Are you in a hurry or do you want to take your time?   Are you taking the by-pass road into Collins (Reed) Valley
or going up Lower Willows and following the wash trail to Middle Willows?   
Are you riding a non-gaited horse or gaited mule?   Are you going to ride that horse or mule in a walk, trot
(many gaited equines can trot, but why would you want to trot?), canter, gallop?

The last time I rode to Bailey´s cabin with my horse and pack mule it took me 4.5 hours.  Coming
back it took 3.5.   So, going up the canyon is when I like to take notes or use a GPS.
 
Here´s my GPS readings while going up Coyote Canyon.  I know there will be some who will disagree
with these numbers, but these are MY readings from MY GPS:
 
                          Altitude    Distance from Horse Camp

Horse camp -         960 ft                 
Digiorgio Road Jct. 1,000 ft     .8 mile
Bottom of L.W. -   1,190 ft    2.2 miles  (Following road through Third Crossing)
Top of L.W.     -   1,306 ft     3.3 miles
Bottom of M.W.    1,869 ft     6.7 miles  (at vehicle barrier - I used the wash trail from L.W. to M.W.)
Upper Willows      2,205 ft     9.8 miles (at vehicle barrier)
Bailey´s cabin       2,291 ft  10.1 miles
Bm. of rocky road  2,722 ft
Park boundary       3,564 ft   16.9 miles

Pk bdry - Hwy 371&Kirby Rd. 25.4 miles
Hwy 371&Kirby road
to Circle K, Anza, Ca.           26.9 miles
 
The Pacific Crest Trail is 16.1 miles from horse camp (6 miles above Bailey´s cabin).

Difference in altitude between horse camp and Bailey´s:  1,331 feet.  Difference in altitude between horse camp
and top of Coyote Canyon:  3,014 feet.
 
Coming back to horse camp at a fast walk with pack mule:  Bailey´s to Bottom of Middle Willows - one hour. 
Bottom of M. W. to top of L.W. (using wash trail) - one hour 15 minutes. 
Top of L.W. to Horse Camp - 1 hour 10 minutes.  Total time -  3 hours 25 minutes.
 
By the way, if you´re heading to Bailey´s cabin for an overnight stay, please let me know. 
Once the sun goes down I check campsites and day-use to see who´s back and who´s not.  I´ve come close to
calling a ranger when someone is not back within a reasonable hour after dark. Especially if you have a young
or inexperienced rider with you.  If you´re a day-user, please put something on your dash telling me your plans.

Also, when going up to Bailey´s for an overnighter, it would be a good idea to
water your horse in Middle Willows before continuing. 
There is water for your horse or mule in Alder Canyon above Bailey´s. 
However, there is no water at Bailey´s cabin or just below.  Also, keep in mind Bailey´s cabin is for ¨whoever
shows up first.¨  So, have a back-up plan if you arrive and find 20 boy scouts camped there.

The next full moon will be 9 February.  So, come on out and
bring your telescope.  Moonrise will be around 5:30 pm.  On Valentine´s Day weekend,
moonrise will be later....around 11 pm.   
 
                                                      ....................................
 
For over 15 years the Back Country Horsemen of northern California,
from Shasta and Trinity counties,  have been involved with a partnership with the US Forest Service
and the California Conservation Corps trails programs.  The BCH provide weekly pack mule support for the CCC
throughout the summer.  BCH units volunteer to help pack in weekly camp moves and
food supplies, and provide essential services for both the USFS and CCC,...
all free of charge, because of their love of trails and of the youth development program.
 
Speaking of the California Conservation Corps, I received
the following from Jason Duke, Park Maintenance Chief III, Colorado Desert District/California State Parks:  


 

¨Anza-Borrego SP, over the past few years has had several facilities replaced to meet Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) requirements, one being the new restroom located at  the Horse Camp. As we continue to move forward with our compliance and departmental goals to provide equal experience to all, California State Parks (DPR) has contracted the  California Conservation Corp to build a new accessible trail that will extend from the Culp Valley Campground to the overlook of Hell Hole Canyon on the California Riding and

 

 Hiking Trail (CRHT). This new trail will allow persons with limited mobility to enjoy the breath taking landscape of the Anza-Borrego Desert from a location that has been accessible only to those who have the ability to hike on foot or ride on horseback or bikes. The new section of trail from Culp Valley to the CRHT is extremely labor intensive whereas these young men and women of the CCC are hauling, breaking and stacking rock for several thousand linier feet. Once this section is complete they will start the interface with the CRHT meaning there will be two separate trails running parallel to the overlook. This will allow the horsemen to continue their ride without impeding the people in mechanical devices and vise versa. State Parks and CCC expect to complete the project sometime in April provided everything goes well.

During the time of construction the CCC crew will be staying at the Vern Whitaker Horse Camp, which was a compromise by the management team of the Colorado Desert District, to include the Anza-Borrego Sector management team as a minor provision, on our part, for this project due to the expected cost of nearly $500k. Historically California has employed the CCC to construct many of the features that we look at, as part of our cultural heritage. I have high hopes that this trail will become a segue for future projects throughout the desert on mountain regions of the Borrego Desert.¨

 

      

The CCC crew is in San Diego right now, but will return on 11 February

to continue their work on the new ADA trail to Vista Point.  In addition to working on trails, the CCC works on other projects such as tree planting, erosion control and fence construction, and responds to natural disasters such as wildland fires, floods, earthquakes and oil spills.   

For more information on the CCC visit  www.ccc.ca.gov

 

You can access the CR&HT from the Culp Valley parking area, by riding your horse up the dirt road that splits toward Pena Spring.  There´s also great riding on the other side of Montezuma Grade (S-22), using The Jasper Trail and the Old Culp Valley Road for loop-rides with the CR&HT.  Confused?  

Stop at the Ranchita Country Store and talk to the owner...who rides the trails.

Or talk to Ranger Jennifer Rodriguez, who has Culp Valley in her sector (760) 767 4238.   

                                             .......................   

By this time next year, Madeleine Pickens, the wife of oil billionaire T. Boone Pickens,  hopes to have the world’s largest wild horse sanctuary open for customers — some 33,000 mustangs, that the federal government (the BLM) considered for euthanasia or selling to slaughterhouses overseas.

(This is due to a big drop in adoptions by the general public).

Madeleine hopes to acquire more than a million acres for her sanctuary, and adopt ALL wild horses currently occupying BLM corrals, across 10 western states. 

 

Madeleine has received calls from veterinarians from all over the country, offering vet care, and thousands of volunteers have offered to help her as well.

If you want to learn more, Madeleine´s website is www.madeleinepickens.com

 

 

Did you know that you can access the park´s monthly interpretive activities schedule on-line?  Just go to Www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638

Scroll down and look on the right side of the page for February 2009 Interpretive Activites Schedule.pdf.  The Archaelology Weekend is listed there ( February 21-22, 2009), with all lectures, field trips, etc. free of charge.

One of those field trips (scheduled for Sunday) will be to Vallecito Valley, including a tour of the Campbell Ranch property led by Sue Wade, Colorado Desert District Archaelologist.  Sue is also giving a pre-field trip talk Saturday, pertaining to turning part of the Campbell Ranch property into a Cultural Preserve. 

   

Something else you will find on the park website are the different passes available.  For those who qualify, there´s a state park pass called the DISTINGUISHED VETERAN PASS.

This pass is for honorably discharged war veterans, who are residents of California, with a disability of 50% or more, former POW´s and Medal of Honor recipients.   If you know

someone out there who meets the criteria (see website),  pass it on to them.  The pass entitles the holder to the use of all basic facilities operated by the State Park System at no charge. 

The pass is a ¨thank you¨ from the state of California.

                                             ...............

 I mentioned Dr. Richard Reading in my last newsletter.  He gave a talk on  31 January at Borrego Springs Performing Arts Center - (Beasts from the East:  Conserving Wildlife in Mongolia´s Gobi Desert).  Dr. Reading showed some wonderful photographs that evening, but what stood out to me was that 40 percent of all Mongolians are nomatic;  all land in Mongolia is public land; you can ride a horse from one end to the other and never cross a paved road or have to open a gate (no fences).

And, Mongolia is the way Montana used to be 150 years ago.  Also, when you greet a Mongolian, you say, ¨Hi, ...are your livestock fat?¨  ¨Tie up your dog.¨ 

                                        ............................. 

 The date to clear Lower Willows, by the Back Country Horsemen, is 14 November 2009.

If you're not a member of the BCHC,  here's your chance to join.   I just did (again).

www.bchcalifornia.net     

                                                           ..............................   

 The ranch I work for in Montana is planning to host a branding clinic using Nordforks 3-6 June 2009.  Wally and Rett Papez are the ranch owners.  Bob King will be the clinician and instructor.

 For those of you familiar with branding calves, there are a number of ways to do it.  During Lester Reed and Bob Fudge´s younger days they would walk into a corral or crowding pen, grab a calf and throw it to the ground.  During the great cattle drives up the Northern Trail to Montana, thousands of calves had ¨road brands¨ put on them this way.  

Other methods are flanking, tailing, flat-assing, etc.  For bigger calves, ropers head and heel them and stretch ´em on the ground. Another method is using  a dead-man (a stake, inner-tube and a loop for the front feet of the calf).  Wrestler-horse combination is also done. 

Last, but not least is the Nordfork, named after Nord Hill of Blackfoot, Idaho. 

When using this method, the roper goes in and ropes both hind feet...dragging the calf straight past the ground man, who places the Nordfork behind the head of the calf.  The fork is connected to a stake in the ground with an inner-tube in the middle. The roper continues past the ground man/woman/person until everything is stretched, sliding his dallies, while moving the hindquarters of his horse to face the calf, keeping tension on his rope.

At this point the calf is stretched out, with the inner-tube cushioning the calf, and the ground people go to work.

Using a Nordfork properly, with experienced ropers and ground people, is very efficient and saves the ground crew a lot of work (compared to wrestling).  It is also less stressful to the calves compared to using a calf table and/or squeeze chute. 

If anyone is on vacation northeast of Yellowstone Park the first week in June and wants to watch, let me know and I´ll ask the Quarter Circle T Ranch ¨big boss¨ about having you there.  

If you are interested in seeing some photos of the above

described operation go to www.ranch-roper.com    Click on horse gear, then ¨saddles¨ and ¨ropes¨ and scroll down.  You'll probably see a couple of ropers there from Southern California.

For those who want to take it further and improve your roping skills, or as they used to say, ¨sling the catgut better,¨ take the 4-day Buck Brannaman ranch roping clinic in Willcox, Az . (20-24 March) - (520) 686 3776. 

Or if you want to sign up for the branding clinic at the Quarter Circle T Ranch in Montana (3-6 June),

call me at (406) 425 0744. 

 

My only motive for putting the above information in this newsletter is to try to perpetuate this skill and way of life.  The same roping skills you see at The Californios Ranch Roping & Stock Horse Contest (April 24-26, 2009 - Red Bluff, Ca.), Old California Reata Roping & Stock Horse Contest, (October 10-11, 2009 - Rancho Santa Margarita, Santa Margarita, Ca.) and Vaquero Days (October 17-19, 2009 - Granville Martin Ranch, Descanso, Ca.), are slowly dying out on many ranches, being replaced with ATV´s, motorcycles, squeeze chutes and calf tables.   I do not receive any compensation from Buck or Bob, and there are other good ranch roping instructors out there, but I know these two gentlemen and they are both excellent teachers.

  
Here´s good wishes to you... from Sidne and me...until next season. 

We are departing horse camp around the end of February, and will be heading to The 14th Annual International Conference of the Anza Society in Tucson, Az.  It will be held at the Hotel Tucson City Center.  

There will be a guest appearance of a relative of Sargent Grijalva, the third in command on the Anza Colonization Expedition (1775-1776), along with other speakers and tours of the Presidio San Agustin del Tucson and Mission San Xavier del Bac, and an appearance by Don Garate, as Juan Bautista de Anza.  

Interested?   Go to www.anzasociety.org    Click on Annual Meeting.  

 We´ll be missing part of the flower season again, but there´s no reason for you to miss any of it.  So, come on out and enjoy the park. 

If you see Ranger Nancy, try to convince her NOT to retire!

The latch string is always on the outside of our door.

 

 
Happy Trails  
 
Dick Overturf  -
Host  Vern Whitaker Horse Camp 
NAI Certified Interpetive Guide  
Board member Anza Society
Anza Borrego Desert State Park
(406) 425 0744  (Verizon cell phone at horse camp and in Montana)
(406) 425 7243  (Sidne´s cell phone)